Fashion capital?

One must ask the question ...


Fashionista?


... really?

Art and architecture

Apart from my global food discovery adventures, like any good tourist, I also enjoy a bit of art and architecture along the way. And I managed to see some really cool stuff in Paris and London.

I had the luxury of doing the museums in London with my own personal curator and art historian (thanks Caro!) on hand, which I have to say made the experience all that little more interesting. So at the V&A we started by being very impressed with the ...


Chandelier

in the entrance foyer. Caro was beside herself when we stopped to consult our map on a balcony and looked down into ...


Curator's ultimate dream

a stock room! And then I had an intake of breath moment or two in the glass room looking at the all the Tiffany, Limoges and Emile Gallé glass wear, as well as some of the more everyday ...


Art deco glass

The V&A has something for everyone, and I just loved these ...


Korean ceremonial kimonos

And travelling back and forth from Heathrow, one of London's well known buildings, where my Dad used to get on and off the train on his way to and from the tiny apartment in Kilburn where I spent my first year ...


Structural support at Paddington Station

So I left London for Paris, where finally, after 7 years of restoration, and several failed attempts of mine to see the collections, the Musée des Arts Decoratifs was open!


Foyer of the Musée des Arts Decoratifs

I'd been dying to get in here and was so happy to actually see the stunning art nouveau pieces in the jewellery collection that I know from my favourite coffee table books, as well as the incredible furniture collection, which covers 3 centuries including our own. And the temporary fashion exhibition was an awesome display of Jean-Paul Gaultier's work from the early and mid-80s, including all the costumes he designed for a modern ballet production back in 1986 - cool as (but no photos permitted inside - quel dommage!)

And there were really secret and quirky glimpses of Paris' landmarks to be found from inside the building.


Louvre pyramid view

And at the Centre Pompidou some fun and fabulous modern art, including sculptures by one of my faves ...


Alexander Calder

And where I fell completely in love with a photograph by one of France's hottest contemporary photographers, Eric Baudelaire, who just happened to be running a workshop while I was there ... shame of it is, I only discovered this after returning to Syama - bugger!


As you can see there is art everywhere in Paris - which suits me just fine!


Palais Royal

I loved the reflections in this shiny modern sculpture. And of course if you are a collector, there's plenty of time to wander through the 18e siècle ...


Passage

and pick up a piece by ...


Yves Klein!

The detail on some of the early 20th century buildings is just lovely,


Building on the Seine - 1905

And then there is ...


The dome - Au Printemps

And returing to the theme from my last post, check out this window display.


Ribbon shop

Such loveliness everywhere - it's almost too much!

Ooh la la, la nourriture

Contrary to popular belief, I have actually returned to Syama, but I am still coasting along on the memories of my culinary adventures in the French capital. I thought you should all share in my pleasure, so today let me present you with a few more pictures. Starting with ...


Le dejeuner biologique

... an antipasto platter, French style, at the organic restaurant Le pain quotidien near le Marché St-Honoré.

The window displays are amazing, and so very, very tempting...


Les chocolats at Michel Cluizel

Or for a quick lunch à emporter, try ...


un sandwich au pistou

Or pop into ...


Paul on Haussmann

for one of their ...


baguettes

then find the ...


fromagerie

and the ...


vendeur du vin

for the traditional lunch! Perhaps follow it up with something delicious and sweet from ...


Ladurée

Otherwise, sit down at the brasserie for the much more romantically called ...


tartine

(So much more alluring than 'cheese on toast'.) Lovely with a crisp AOC sancerre I might add!

For dinner on a traditional food day, it must be about time for ...


un crêpe avec le cidre

An aperitif afterwards at the ...


Boissonerie

... or just a refreshing


Perrier?

Oops, think I may have eaten too much!

Un Jour Ailleurs

One of the (many) fantastic things about Paris is that there is at least one café on every block - which is tremendous because you can always find a coffee, a kir, or whichever other beverage is going to meet your needs at any time - but the trick is finding the one you want to keep on returning to.

So, with this in mind, I spent my days just walking - strolling really - around in the sunny weather looking for just the right spot - which was when I stumbled on au petit fer à cheval in the Marais. It was adjacent to, and across the street from, at least six other similar establishments, but it just looked right.


My new local

... AND which was where I had the most outstanding meal of my stay, quite by chance. It was lunchtime and although I wasn't really hungry, I was talked into ordering the plat du jour by the (of course) charming waiter.


Entrecôte de veau

A superbly cooked veal steak with a spectacular red pepper sauce on a bed of endives - I don't know what secrets the chef used to get rid of the typically bitter and sharp taste of the endives, these were so delicious - with carrots on the side, in a soufflé! I was so happy and so satisfied with this dish after not having much luck previously with the more traditional meals, that I lingered for some time and ate as slowly as I could to enjoy every mouthful while it was still hot and lovely.

I went and thanked the chef afterwards - naturellement - and enjoyed the pleasure of people watching with my fellow café-goers, whilst listening to the local gossip provided by the couple sitting at the table in front of mine, especially reserved for them everyday! Delightful ...


At the café

So once I satisfied myself lunch-wise, I hit the streets as a tourist again - life is hard ain't it?


Guimard's metro

... will take you to see the sights.


La Tour Eiffel (encore)


Pyramid?


Pyramids at the Louvre


Pont de Napoleon III - Grand Palais

And because sight-seeing can be a highly energetic activity, it is always wise to ensure you have the right provisions (i.e. enough sugar!) to get you through it all.


What surprise lies inside?


Une tartelette

Yes Brent, I am now officially one of the bourgeoisie!!! Shame, shame on me ...

La vie quotidienne

Paris - well, there just isn't anywhere else like it. It really is a stunningly beautiful city where anything is possible and you can't but help feel your spirits lift. (That is unless you are my cousin Pete who still hasn't forgiven the voleur Parisien who stole the last of his cash at the end of his holiday!)

However, I am not troubled by such bad memories so this time I was determined just to take everything slowly and get a feel for daily life, so that WHEN I relocate here, I'll be well and truly ready! And despite the plethora of foreign tourists in town (and I include my humble self amongst them), I did manage to find a slice of daily life in a few little corners of this magical city.

I went for a walk on Sunday morning, and found very little happening until I got close to Rue Montorguiel in the 2e arrondissement, where I found the locals shopping and heading back to their families and friends with provisions for lunchtime.


Le dimananche matin

I just paddled and picked up a box of my favourites,


Les framboises!

and retired to the jardin in the courtyard of the Palais Royal, where I spent a couple of hours sitting in the shade, with an elderly couple who found me a comfortable chair and insisted that I join them. We shared my bounty and watched the world go by.


Jardin du Palais Royal

There are beautiful gardens dotted all around Paris, and many of them belong to the royal palaces of pre-republic times. The fabulous thing is that these spectacular places now belong to the public and play a big part in the lives of Parisiens - a place to sit and read, eat lunch or meet friends, take the dog/children for some outdoor time. And a seat will always become free at some point for the weary traveller!


Fountain at dusk

In the summertime in the Jardin des Tuileries, which separates the Place de la Concorde from the Louvre - and provides a stunning view up the Champs Elysée to the Arc de Triomphe - there is a fairground for the kids, which is very quaint indeed and full of happy voices.


La fête

But there's plenty to do no matter how old you are ...


Serious times

Or if you have had enough of all those little treats, you can play some boules by the river.


Petanque on the Seine

... or just sneak a look at everyone's favourite structure ...


La Tour Eiffel